Thursday, 13 November 2014

Bistro Yokocho: Always something new











Area:  about 350m south of Kokusai Center Station 国際センター駅
Restaurant:  Bistro Yokocho  ビストロ 横丁
Website and Map:  http://ameblo.jp/bistro-yokocho/

Hours:  Weedays Lunch 11:30am-2pm, Dinner 5-11pm (12pm on Fri), Sat 3-11pm, closed Sun and Holidays


This wine bar is open on weekends from 3pm so I was able to come during my break hours.  The menu is extensive with interesting sounding items.

The otoshi, or sitting fee appetizer, was takenoko and edamame simmered in tomato sauce.  Otoshi is usually charged at Japanese izakayas or bars and is around ¥300.  I ordered the lamb jaga (¥480).  Normally, this is a home cooking dish called niku jaga.  It comprises of stewed meat and potatoes in a soy sauce based broth.  This one ended up being a tomato sauce stewed lamb and potato combo.  It had a lot of olive oil and a mild flavor similar to ratatouille.  The lamb went nicely with this sauce, and the potatos were not mushy nor hard, a good texture.  However it had a similar flavor to the otoshi.  I noticed a lot of their menu items included tomato base sauces, and I wanted something a bit different.

Thus I asked for recommendations and ended up ordering a coriander coleslaw (¥480).  It was written as a mountain of coriander on the menu, and it came as just that. Underneath, shredded cabbage and onion carrot sprouts, were sitting in a soup of fish sauce based dressing.  I'm not so sure I'd call it a dressing, given the  amount it was siting in.  

I was also recommended the housemade pork ham (¥680).  It was too salty, masking the flavor of the meat itself; I couldn't finish it all.  The drizzling of olive oil was nice, but I think they need to redo their ham recipe.  

Although I didn't have a great impression the first time, I did come back to give it another try.  The thing that pulled me back was the variety.  In addition to the regular menu there is also an osusume or recommendation menu that is constantly changing.  This time I ordered an octopus terrine (¥580).  It was served with chives drizzled with olive oil and minced pickled veggies (tasted like coleslaw), both good accompaniments.  The octopus had a nice soft and chewy texture (not tough like the octopus I grew up eating at home).    The consommé jelly was had the perfect seasoning, not too salty.  The black olives were mild and added an extra level, as did the braised beef.  Small pieces of cauliflower added a bit of crunch.  

This time I asked to omit the otoshi.  I asked if doing this was rude, but he said it was ok,  I'm betting he just said that to be nice though.  It's probably looked down upon, and seen as being cheap or frugal, but while I was working at an izakaya, customers would request not to be charged the otoshi fee and it was allowed. 

I also ordered something from the regular menu that seemed interesting (¥880).  It was a fritter of gobo wrapped anago (an eel-like sea creature).  The only problem was that I had to rush eating it since it took a while for them to prepare and I had to get back to work.  From what I remember, it didn't have much flavor, only the flavor of being fried; it had a nice crunch though.

I came back once more (this time I accepted the otoshi).  I ordered the carrot salad, which was nothing too special.  The thing that impressed me this time was the roasted zucchini with a beef tendon sauce.  The Zucchini was so soft and juicy, but still had a good texture and was not at all mushy.  The beef tendon sauce had a deep flavor that made it seem like it had been stewing for quite a long time.  It was only accented by salt, but that's all the seasoning it needed.

This is a bistro that knows food, and experimentation of cooking techniques and flavors.  It would be a great place to relax with a glass of wine (or several glasses).

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